textiles

TEXTILES

a quick historical overview

Until the mid 1880's in America and later (the twentieth century) in the rest of the world, 80% of all textiles and fabrics for clothes, tents, linens, rugs, drapes, quilts, diapers etc. were made primarilary from hemp fibres. When these became tatty, especially clothes, they were mixed into paper.

Late in the 1820s Euopeans invented "industrial" looms and cotton 'gins' (short for engine) which replaced hand cotton gins. This lead to light cotton clothing being able to be produced at less cost than hand retting and hand seperating hemp fibres to be spun on spinning wheels and 'jennys'.

In the twentieth century the Du Pont company invented and patented nylon production, which was a very cheap method of producing synthetic cloth.

How does hemp compare to cotton?

Australia produces an estimated 1.06 million bales of cotton annually. A bale of cotton is 227kg. The area which produces the greatest number (estimated to have been 400,000 bales in 1994) is the Namoi area in northern New South Wales. This is also the largest growing region, with more than 70,000 hectares under cultivation.

The Macquarie area is the next largest producer- over 200,000 bales in 1994- from a area of 34,000 hectares. Darling Downs cotton growing region covers 40,000 hectares and produces more than 40% of Queensland's state total- 300,000 bales in 1994. However, it must be noted these yields can vary widely depending upon the weather, pests and water avaliablity.

Cotton is a difficult crop to grow. It needs much irrigation and extensive use of herbicides and pesticides as it is prone to attack. Hemp does not need an enormous amount of irrigation and is unlikely to need chemical agents.

The Darling River is at a high risk of Blue Green Algal Blooms, which is contributed top by the high levels of toxic runoff from cotton farms, as well as drift from aerial spraying. In 1993 the Australian beef export industry faced a crisis when exports were suspended after the detection of residues of the insecticide chlorofluazuron (or "helix"). The source of the contaminent was the by product of cotton ginning- trash - which had been fed to drought striken cattle. This chemical had been applied to cotton to protect it from insect attack during its growth period.

Another common chemical group used in agricultural cropping is a herbicide glyphosate, used to control competing weed growth. The use of thses chemicals an lead to eventual changes in the distribution of weeds and in patterns of dominance, which results in exchanging old weeds for new more aggressive types.

As insceticides are not necessary for the cultivation of hemp these dangers and ecological problems would not be faced.

As cultivated hemp grows up to 5 meters tall and is densely covered with foliage, it allows limited light to penetrate ground level where weeds grow, thus reducing their ability to grow. Therefore no herbicides are required during the cultivation of hemp. After the harvest the field is left virtually weed free ready for the next crop.

A further advantageous factor provided by growing hemp is its deep tap root system. This enables the plant to take advantage of deep subsoil moisture, so once established minimal irrigation is necessary, a requirement reducing pressure on our precious water stocks.

A quick look at how cotton is produced
[a note must be added to say the Australian cotton industry is aware of these problems and is currently undertaking research to develop alternative pest controls.]

WHAT ELSE DO HEMP TEXTILES HAVE TO OFFER?

Besides the environmental benefits provided through hemp cultivation, hemp fabrics themselves have advantages to offer. Fabrics with at least 50% hemp content block the sun's UV rays more effectively than do other fabrics. In comparison to cotton, hemp fibres are longer, stronger, more lustrous and absorbent, and more mildew resistant. Hemp clothes keep the wearer warmer in winter and cooler in summer in comparison to cotton and synthetic materials. Hemp textiles are not only limited to clothing. Like other fabrics, for instance canvas, hemp can be made into a variety of shoe styles.